PHU QUOK PEPPER

 
Robert & Morrison globetrotted to this tropical paradise at Vietnam's southern extremity in November. The island directly faces Cambodia's mainland, historically belongings to the Khmers, but a century ago bequeathed to Tonkin as a bridal dowry. The French used it as a prison in the colonial period, and during the Pol Pot years, ethnic Cambodians were forcibly relocated.

While Ecuadorian talamanca is considered the world's hottest, gourmets now clamour for expensive Cambodian Kampot or meric pepper, from the former coastal resort city of the same name, which are grown in the shadow of the deliciously named Cardamom mountains. With local wholesale rates there of $18 per kilo (2.2 lbs) it's not cheap, but that hasn't stopped leading chefs from placing orders. In both Kampot and on Phu Quoc,

For a foodie, Phu Quoc also grows one of the world's great peppercorns -- Not surprising, really, considering its proximity to Cambodia -- another hot rated pepper for the cognoscenti! Better yet, this Phu Quoc pepper costs a fraction of the price. Like Kampot, locals here also harvest expensive "red" peppercorns, which are actually the same berries, but allowed to ripen an extra 8 to 12 days before picking. As with all peppercorns, the berries still turn black upon drying; but they are larger, with pronounced flavour. In stark contrast to cheap Vietnamese mainland pepper now flooding the world market, colonial Phu Quoc was renowned for growing Vietnam's best. The large size of its corns is reminiscent of Indian Tellicherry, and when ground, turn a reddish hue. Locals grind it to a dust-like powder to blend with salt, then squeeze fresh lime to create an ambrosial dipping sauce known as mui tio chanh -- delicious with seafood and grilled meats.

   
 
 
 
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