Illicit production comes from neighbouring countries, which has led to Vietnam now enforcing an appellation d'origine controlee status. Even worse, many of these fakes are chemically made, eschewing the time-honoured traditions of year-long fermentation. On Phu Quoc, locals claim their product is better because they exclusively use the aforementioned long-jawed anchovy. And like fine wine imbued with oak, local woods are used to make the 10-foot (3 metre) tall vats for the fermenting fish. The proof is in the aroma. Alas, Vietnam Air embargoes all fish sauce off the island -- fearing broken bottles will contaminate luggage. But persevere. We "smuggled" 4 bottles to Saigon!

Airways notwithstanding, fishy aroma is also what Western consumers don't want. So two Thai companies now market an odour-free nam pla (Thai for fish sauce) made from tuna. Juthamarth Marketing in Thailand's southern province of Sokgkla started using tuna some five years ago, and its fish sauce is now sold to Hong Kong, China and Japan, with small footholds in Europe and North America. Other Thai companies, such as Megachef and Pla Muk brands, are joining the foray, but using smaller Grade A quality fish, instead of a mixed catch. These prices are up to four times more than a standard bottle, but at under a few dollars, it's still a steal.