Thai Food: What wine to drink?
 
Wine with Asian food is always a controversial subject -- at least to Westerners. While a cool, quenching beer works best with the hot spice of chili and the citrus zing of lemongrass and fresh lime, wine also has a role to play in such a marriage of flavors.
I recently spoke about Thai foods and wine with Jim Brayne, chief winemaker at the Australian vineyards of McWilliams. He chose some intriguing possibilities:
2001 McWilliams Regional Collection.
  Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 
2001 McWilliam's Regional Collection
  Clare Valley Riesling
2000 Mount Pleasant
  Hunter Valley Verdelho
2000 Mount Pleasant
  Hunter Valley Merlot
While all but one of these wines are white, the idea that red wine goes with Asian food is far from far fetched. Just witness the ordering in any Asian restaurant amongst the Asians themselves, and you will be surprised to see that red wine wins hands down. (Admittedly, Johnnie Walker scotch still bests all, but...) It seems the conservative Westerners are the only hold outs in the white wine brigade. Moreover, gone are the days when white wine with Asian foods had to be sweet. Fruity, yes -- and an absence of wood definitely. But sweet, no way.
One of my favorite white blends these days is semillon-sauvignon blanc, and Brayne's McWilliam's offering proved a hit with the fiery tastes of Thai appetizers: fish cakes with sweet chili relish, gai yang grilled chicken, green beans in red curry, beef satay, and various dipping sauces. The verdehlo less so, while the Clare Valley riesling, as with so many of delicious rieslings from this part of the world, rose to the challenge.
 
The velvety softness of merlot was an unexpected success, as well. Too often wine aficionados go overboard in their rules for red wines with Asian foods. No tannin as in shiraz/syrah/hermitage, caution some, yet this rule clearly conflicts with the Chinese marriage of food with tannic tea. One Hanoi-based French chef cautioned me against Spanish rioja with Vietnamese cooking, then immediately suggested a hearty Cotes du Rhone (a tannic syrah) as his preferred choice. The moneyed will choose a fine cabernet sauvignon or pinot noir, while lesser mortals will find solace in an inexpensive grenache.
 

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