 |
| |
Dan or tan tart is the Chinese equivalent of egg custard pie. But its flavour is infinitely subtler, with no overpowering vanilla, and only lightly sweetened. |
 |
| Commonly baked in small rounds of flaky pastry, you’re likely to find these paraded at dim sum or yum cha luncheons. We chanced upon Singapore’s best at Tong Heng, which has shops around this island nation. Their tan tart is different than most, as its cooked in a diamond shape, and the sou pei or “crisp skin” pastry is more like classic pâte feuillletée. Little wonder that some historians contend Portuguese pasteis de nata is the origin of this recipe. |
The best tarts literally crumble into a thousand bits with each bite. Yet you can’t have both tender and flaky, contends Shirley Corriher in her cooking theory book. But here, she’s proven wrong. Even more importantly, the best pastry is made with two separate doughs, then folded and rolled together like détrempe in classic French puff. As for the secret of its lighter-than light, just-set custard texture: fine straining and very slow baking. (Yellow food coloring can also be added, for a more vivid hue.) Surprisingly, the ratio of whole eggs versus tender egg yolks is secondary. Just imagine the lightest sweet quiche imaginable, and then double it! |
Although round tan tarts are more common these days, the squarish-diamond shape actually pre-dates Western-influenced round tarts. Chinese pastry chefs traditionally formed patty shells by pinching opposite corners to form a cup, which allowed for baking without a shell.
|
 |
Tong Heng also bakes a slightly stringy coconut custard tart version, presumably a play on an expensive classic version using birds' nest or swallows' nest -- an expensive luxury painstakenly gathered by hunter- gathers in caves across Sooutheast Asia. It's dangerous work, but hey, sombody's got to do it. If you are heading to Singapore soon, you are in luck on your outbound journey: Tong Heng has an airport shop in Terminal 2 where you can purchase them before your journey home. Alas, these delicate custard tarts do not travel well, and the custard sets unflatteringly upon refrigeration. |
 |
|
|
|
| |
|
|
