Wine Atlas of New Zealand
Saggio di Vino
   
Hunting, fishing and gathering was the main purpose of our latest travel to the extremes of New Zealand's wild southern Island -- otherwise known as " The Mainland." But wine was certainly not out of our minds, especially as we were travelling with the sumptuously illustrated Wine Atlas of New Zealand by Michael Cooper (2003: Hodder Moa Beckett publishers). What a highly recommended book it is, and well used while dining at Christchurch's leading restaurant, Saggio di Vino. For this is more a wine bar cum restaurant, than vice versa.
   
"Pick anything you like from the menu, in any order," said owner Lisa Scholz when we sat down for our Saturday night spread. "You can share, whatever." Such a refreshing attitude from a restaurateur, especially from a leading light in that city's otherwise stultified food scene. But then this is no ordinary restaurant.
   
Scholz came to NZ from her native Germany shortly after the Chernobyl crisis in Europe. "You couldn't buy anything fresh from the market," she explained about the nuclear fall out. "And since I had just returned that very day from visiting New Zealand, I booked the next flight back. I stayed and never looked back."
   
Today she is a leading advocate of New Zealand ingredients, yearly highlighting new industries from Aotearoa's success cultivating the illusive black truffle, to local saffron, not to mention the island's unctuous Pacific salmon, venison and the like.
   
"But can we fine a drinkable New Zealand red," I queried mischievously. "Of course, of course," she pooh-poohed in a Teutonic manner. But just to be on the safe side, after a few dismal red failures, we stuck with bottle after bottle of ambrosial New Zealand white, and nary a Sauvignon Blanc amongst the lot.
   
Sergio de vino present an imminently practical tasting through their remarkably extensive list of New Zealand wines. Order any wine from the entire list variously by the 10 cl glass, a larger 500 ml sample, or as a whole bottle. It's a great way to taste so many varieties as humanly possible, without needing a tasting spittoon.
   
The land of the great white cloud has made great strides with wine over the past couple of decades, and we were well off the beaten track, away from the big names of New Zealand wines. South Canterbury and the nearby hinterlands of Otago encompass Christchurch -- 310,000 population out of the entire country's total of 3.8 million. This is a cold climate areas, with austere wines reflecting the regions. Michael Cooper's pictorial Wine Atlas of New Zealand helped us daily plan where to go, and what to drink. We waxed lyrical over a sunny lunch in at Fleur's Place in Moeraki, savoring saut?ed cod livers with a pinot gris from the quirky named "Good Times" vineyard. And we never tired of Pegasus Bay sauvignon blanch semillon blends.
   
My parochial palate still has me largely restricting southern hemisphere reds to Australia. Yet this gorgeously illustrated book allowed me more than enough exceptions to test my "parochial palate." Despite its heavy weight, it will be firmly packed in the suitcase for our next travels to this south Pacific paradise. For the intrepid foodie, buy it there in NZ, and lug it back home. The coffee table will approve. Also available in Australia from Hodder Headline. Well recommended.
   
Wine Atlas of New Zealand
by Michael Cooper
Hodder Moa Beckett publishers
$125 Aud and NZ
   
Saggio di Vino  
185 Victoria St.  
Christchurch, New Zealand  
Tel (+64-3) 3794 006  
saggio@xtra.co.nz  
   
     

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