Alas, many neighborhoods remain “transitional” some 20 years after other American cities gentrified. Plus, Baltimore has steadily lost population over the past 50 years. So recently the city launched an “immigrate to Baltimore” campaign, and judging from the myriad eastern European accents we encountered in every taxi, the plan seems to be working. The new ethnic influx will no doubt change the face of its southern eating habits as well.

But there will always be crab. And more crab...

Sitting proudly on the vast Chesapeake Bay, shared by Washington, DC to the south on the Potomac river, this is a vast estuary of sea life. And every late spring small wooden mallets come out of their packing to crack crab shells aplenty. At traditional crab houses, the tables are laid with butchers’ paper, and diners draped in plastic bibs sorting all sorts of tom foolery captions, each holding his or her own personal hammer . For Maryland is the home of blue crabs, and its most famous seasoning is Baltimore’s Old Bay. First developed by a German immigrant Gustav Brunn in 1939, the seasoning in its distinctive yellow tin is now made byMcCormick’s. It’s a blend of more than a 12 spices and herbs, including paprika, mustard, pepper, bay, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, allspice, ginger, mace and celery salt. Lots of salt. Locals sprinkle the dry mix atop shells prior to steaming, and the trick is to lick your fingers often while prying at the crab lump. It’s delicious – but surprisingly, this typical seasoning doesn’t translate well to other crab varieties, and only debatably on shrimp or prawns.

By mid summer, Baltimore’s restaurants feature soft shell crabs, just moulting and more cartilage then meaty. Locals usually like their merely dusted and sauteed, but out of towners tend to play with crisp tempura batters. The other debate about soft shell crab is whether they can be frozen. local purists scorn the idea, but a generation of Asian migrants counter that premium crab should be frozen at its peak for later use, rather than buying fresh soft shells past their prime. The debate is still on, but one rule holds true: thaw soft shell crab slowly in the fridge, amidst layers of paper towel to draw out the excess moisture.

Baltimore’s other culinary claim to fame is, not surprisingly, crab cakes. Shaped more like a golf- or tennis ball, instead of a patty, these are lightly bound typically with crumbed crackers and seasoned simply with salt, pepper and dry mustard. Because they are usually made with cooked crab, only the outside is heated, resulting occasionally in gluey cold centres. When it comes to crab cakes, Baltimore’s queen is Nancy Faidley at the Lexington Market. A third generation business – its origin going back to 1886 – Faidley personally presides over the kitchen, mixing, shaping and cracker crumbing. Lines queue formidably, but her all lump crab cake is the biggest and best we tried anywhere. Cheaper backfin crab cake is also available . John W. Faidley Seafood www.faidleyscrabcakes.com
203 North Paca St. (410) 727 4898

Obrycki’s Crab House, by contrast, specializes in steamed crabs, pure and simple. First a tavern which expanded to a three-floor restaurant in 1946, it’s a Baltimore institution. About 8 years ago the owners moved next door to a single-floor expansive plan. The decor is bright neon, faux window boxes, fake lattice, and wood-laminate throughout. But the crabs more than make up for its lack of taste. Be warned, the neighbourhood is still “transitional”, so take a taxi. As their security guard cautioned, “don’t walk past the stop light.” We stayed late enough to watch the entire kitchen staff undergo bag checks from the security guard before being allowed to leave. This gives a slightly different definition to institution. Obrycki’s Crab House, www.obryckis.com/obr/stores/1/index.cfm
1727 E. Pratt St. (410) 732 6399

Outside of crab, seafood still dominates the restaurant scene here, with a Greek restaurant, Black Olive, regularly scoring as Baltimore’s best, if priciest. Not meaning to disparage Greek cooking, but can this surely be the best the city can offer? Seems simply cooked and impeccably fresh seafood always wins hands down. We don’t disagree!
www.theblackolive.com
814 S. Bond St. (410) 276 7141

But fancy Kali’s Court left us slightly cold. All glitz, from the vested waiters, to starched napkins and fawning service, the menu was not nearly as smart – especially the chef’s sugared palate favoring Balsamic vinegar ubiquitously. For a celebratory fancy night on the town, Kali’s fits the bill. For a night of simple, yet impeccable albeit expensive seafood, try Black Olive. Kali’s Court. www.kaliscourt.com
1606 Thames St., Baltimore (410) 276 4700

And on a non-food post note, Baltimore’s American Visionary Art museum is one of the world’s most imaginative, clever and inspirational collections we’ve chanced upon. Brimming with “outsider art”, including “primitive “ artist Grandma Moses, the collection is dominated by emotionally challenged schizophrenics. It is a delight to view their world outside the customized box. Sadly, the real-life stories regularly read as heart wrenching (or perversely amusing). Well recommended. American Visionary Art Museum, www.avam.org 800 Key Highway, Baltimore Inner Harbour (410) 244 1900