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THAILAND'S REGIONAL FOODS
31 Oct - 15 Nov, 2003
 
Discovering a country's culture through its cuisine is the idea behind a series of food tours to southeast Asia. Hosted by Globetrotting Gourmet® Robert Carmack and Morrison Polkinghorne, these tours are geared for people who love food, as well as for those who love to cook. You don't have to be a skilled chef, nor even a good cook for that matter. It's for those people who live to eat, and eat to live. And especially for those who want have fun in the process.
MORRISON POLKINGHORNE
ROBERT CARMACK
 

Unlike last year's Thai regional foods tour, the 2003 event includes not one, but two holiday celebrations! "We were lucky enough to fit in the Phimai festival near Korat in Thailand's remote Northeastern Isan province," says Carmack. This celebration is held annually for four days every year amidst spectacular Khmer ruins, and it draws largely a Thai audience with few Western tourists. It meant a lot more jigging with the dates to fit both celebrations in, but it was worth it."

But one thing will never change, adds Carmack, this tour will always coincide with Thailand's "most beautiful holiday," Loi Krathong. "It is absolutely gorgeous. There are all these tiny, intricately woven floats with candles on them," he says. "And the people sail them down the rivers as a tribute to the water spirits. Truly, its breathtakingly beautiful." He then adds, "and the best part of it all, is that we are going to experience it in Sukhothai, amongst the 13th century ruins of Imperial Siam."

 

 

 
"Thai cooking has made it acceptable to be bold with strong flavours," Carmack. "So its not surprising that its food has become one of the world's fastest growing in popularity -- from Sydney to Seattle, Paris to Phoenix. But in Australia, we are particularly lucky with our choices -- because we have something like 10 per cent the world's overseas Thai restaurants. That's quite some feat!" But then he quickly adds," but I love the freshness of Vietnamese dishes, where you wrap so many foods in lettuce leaves and fresh herbs. That is so healthy -- and with only a fraction of the chilies compared to Thai."

 

Carmack should know his facts, because he is author of the just released book, "Thai Home Cooking." A companion book on Vietnamese dishes is also scheduled for release in late 2003. "The popularity of these books is indicative of the world's new found embrace of Southeast Asian cooking," explains Carmack. "Although my book are published in Sydney by Lansdowne, separate publishers in both the U.S. and England have now picked them up, plus translations into French and other European languages. I even saw my Thai book sold in a Saigon bookstore earlier this year."

 

American-born Carmack now calls Australia home. But some two decades on these fatal shores, neither his wanderlust -- nor strong accent -- have abated. "I like to say 'I divide my time between countries,'" he laughs. "Between travelling regularly to the US for work and to see family, and to Asia for more research, my poor dogs in Sydney don't know who their real owner is. But I love travel, and sharing some of my knowledge of these fabled kingdoms in Asia gives me a real kick."

Morrison Polkinghorne, co-host to these Globetrotting Gourmet tours, has an equally infectious case of wanderlust. Aussie-born, he grew up in Tasmania and Alice Spring, but began travelling outside of Australia about 15 years ago. He divides his career between film and textiles -- he is Australia's leading practitioner of tassels, trimmings and braids, with his hand crafted work gracing the likes of The Lodge and Kirribilli House, plus other historic mansions. Morrison first shot pictures for magazines to accompany Robert's travel pieces, and now for video and webpage presentations. "When we first started travelling through Asia, Robert researched the food, and I studied the textiles," he explains. But soon after, the food portion became the dominant focus for both of us."

 

Morrison and Carmack paint an exhilarating picture of travel through Southeast Asia. "We want people to experience the foods and cultures that they can't discover on the standard tourist package," Morrison notes. "But we also want to do it in style -- and comfort as well." Consequently, he notes, hotel accommodation are 5 star when available, but in some country town locations, when a true "experience" or even convenience prevails, the tours include 3 star quality. "That doesn't mean toilets down the hall, no no no," he adds quickly. "It is still cleanliness first. But sometimes straying off the beaten track means slightly less comfort. But we make up for it with deluxe rooms in the other locations."

The November Thai tour, which is handled through San Michele Travel in Sydney and Melbourne, is two weeks-plus of very unique, all inclusive entertainment. "We begin easy," explains Morrison. After a long flight, the first morning is a 2-hour traditional Thai massage. And then we take to the streets, discovering Bangkok's Chinatown by night, and tasting the best khao tom plaa (fish and rice soup) that you will ever eat. The place we are going to cooks their fish to perfection -- to the nanosecond," says Carmack very impressively. "It looks a hole in the wall, and next door they serve the same thing. But the restaurant we have discovered is pure perfection."

 

The tour also covers the royal beach resort of Hua Hin, and flights to Thailand's second city Chiang Mai. Chartered coach transport takes the group through Thailand's vast central region and Phitsonoluk for the final night of the Loi Krathong celebrations. "There, we have a moonlit dinner cruise in the midst of all those gorgeous floats on the river," says Morrison. "And the night is alight with giant natural gas lit lanterns that seem to float all the way to the moon."
Two other features of the central town of Phitsonoluk -- well off the tourist path, explain the two hosts -- is a restaurant where you catch your stir fried vegetables mid air. "You have to don an apron and hat, then wildly fling your arms around to catch the just-booked spinach. The difficulty is the chef throws it directly from his wok on the street level, and you are standing on a first story platform," Morrison chuckles. The tour group also travels to the remote Northeastern province of Isan, where Carmack and Morrison chanced on a luxury Sofitel Hotel complete with German microbrewery in the middle of "nowhere."
 

"Actually, nowhere is not a fair term" protests Morrison. "Khon Kaen is in the heartland of Thailand's silk weaving," he explains, particularly the hand-woven matmee -- the country's equivalent to Indonesian ikat, but of an even higher standard. "The design pattern are tie dyed into the strands, then re-woven into the cloth. It is incredibly labour intensive and beautiful, and consequently, we are including this in the tour."

On the food side, Carmack notes that fiery Isan cooking has become all the trend in cosmopolitan Bangkok these days. "Thai's just cannot seem to get enough of it," he explains, "a bit like the southern Indian Kerala dishes' popularity in India's north. But the world hasn't quite figured this out yet. So this might be peoples' first experience of it."

Carmack notes that typical Isan dishes are the grilled chicken gai yang, green papaya salad --"which you can get in Sydney, but not tasting the same" -- and sticky rice. "You could actually say that Isan lies in the centre of the sticky rice trail" quips Carmack. He then explains that sticky rice, unlike standard steamed Jasmine rice, is first soaked for hours, then literally steamed above water. "Because it clings, it is eaten with the hand, folded into small balls," he notes. "In Isan they still generally eat with hands, and not fork and spook, like in the rest of the kingdom."

 

"Thai food is so incredible," states Carmack. "The vibrant mix of tangy citrus, hot chilies and sugar or sweet coconut milk, combined with bitter aspects create complex textural and flavour layers that are unequalled in other countries. But what I also value equally, is their sense of hygiene. They are very clean people. From the street foods eaten on the sidewalks and footpaths, to the store front eateries, to up-market restaurants, it is all very clean."

 

   

For further information on Globetrotting Gourmet food tours to Asia, contact San Michele Travel directly on (+61-2) 9299 1111. Full itineraries are published on Robert's websites: www.asianfoodtours.com and www.globetrottinggourmet.com or San Michele's website www.asiatravel.com.au


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