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Discovering
a country's culture through its cuisine is the idea behind a series
of food tours to southeast Asia. Hosted by Globetrotting Gourmet®
Robert Carmack and Morrison Polkinghorne, these tours are geared for
people who love food, as well as for those who love to cook. You don't
have to be a skilled chef, nor even a good cook for that matter. It's
for those people who live to eat, and eat to live. And especially for
those who want have fun in the process.
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MORRISON
POLKINGHORNE
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ROBERT
CARMACK
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Unlike
last year's Thai regional foods tour, the 2003 event includes not one,
but two holiday celebrations! "We were lucky enough to fit in the Phimai
festival near Korat in Thailand's remote Northeastern Isan province,"
says Carmack. This celebration is held annually for four days every
year amidst spectacular Khmer ruins, and it draws largely a Thai audience
with few Western tourists. It meant a lot more jigging with the dates
to fit both celebrations in, but it was worth it."
But
one thing will never change, adds Carmack, this tour will always coincide
with Thailand's "most beautiful holiday," Loi Krathong. "It is absolutely
gorgeous. There are all these tiny, intricately woven floats with candles
on them," he says. "And the people sail them down the rivers as a tribute
to the water spirits. Truly, its breathtakingly beautiful." He then
adds, "and the best part of it all, is that we are going to experience
it in Sukhothai, amongst the 13th century ruins of Imperial Siam."
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cooking has made it acceptable to be bold with strong flavours,"
Carmack. "So its not surprising that its food has become one of
the world's fastest growing in popularity -- from Sydney to Seattle,
Paris to Phoenix. But in Australia, we are particularly lucky with
our choices -- because we have something like 10 per cent the world's
overseas Thai restaurants. That's quite some feat!" But then he
quickly adds," but I love the freshness of Vietnamese dishes, where
you wrap so many foods in lettuce leaves and fresh herbs. That is
so healthy -- and with only a fraction of the chilies compared to
Thai." |
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Carmack
should know his facts, because he is author of the just released
book, "Thai Home Cooking." A companion book on Vietnamese dishes
is also scheduled for release in late 2003. "The popularity of
these books is indicative of the world's new found embrace of
Southeast Asian cooking," explains Carmack. "Although my book
are published in Sydney by Lansdowne, separate publishers in both
the U.S. and England have now picked them up, plus translations
into French and other European languages. I even saw my Thai book
sold in a Saigon bookstore earlier this year."
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American-born
Carmack now calls Australia home. But some two decades on these fatal
shores, neither his wanderlust -- nor strong accent -- have abated.
"I like to say 'I divide my time between countries,'" he laughs. "Between
travelling regularly to the US for work and to see family, and to Asia
for more research, my poor dogs in Sydney don't know who their real
owner is. But I love travel, and sharing some of my knowledge of these
fabled kingdoms in Asia gives me a real kick."
Morrison
Polkinghorne, co-host to these Globetrotting Gourmet tours, has an equally
infectious case of wanderlust. Aussie-born, he grew up in Tasmania and
Alice Spring, but began travelling outside of Australia about 15 years
ago. He divides his career between film and textiles -- he is Australia's
leading practitioner of tassels, trimmings and braids, with his hand
crafted work gracing the likes of The Lodge and Kirribilli House, plus
other historic mansions. Morrison first shot pictures for magazines
to accompany Robert's travel pieces, and now for video and webpage presentations.
"When we first started travelling through Asia, Robert researched the
food, and I studied the textiles," he explains. But soon after, the
food portion became the dominant focus for both of us."
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Morrison
and Carmack paint an exhilarating picture of travel through Southeast
Asia. "We want people to experience the foods and cultures that they
can't discover on the standard tourist package," Morrison notes. "But
we also want to do it in style -- and comfort as well." Consequently,
he notes, hotel accommodation are 5 star when available, but in some
country town locations, when a true "experience" or even convenience
prevails, the tours include 3 star quality. "That doesn't mean toilets
down the hall, no no no," he adds quickly. "It is still cleanliness
first. But sometimes straying off the beaten track means slightly less
comfort. But we make up for it with deluxe rooms in the other locations."
The
November Thai tour, which is handled through San Michele Travel in Sydney
and Melbourne, is two weeks-plus of very unique, all inclusive entertainment.
"We begin easy," explains Morrison. After a long flight, the first morning
is a 2-hour traditional Thai massage. And then we take to the streets,
discovering Bangkok's Chinatown by night, and tasting the best khao
tom plaa (fish and rice soup) that you will ever eat. The place we are
going to cooks their fish to perfection -- to the nanosecond," says
Carmack very impressively. "It looks a hole in the wall, and next door
they serve the same thing. But the restaurant we have discovered is
pure perfection."
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The
tour also covers the royal beach resort of Hua Hin, and flights
to Thailand's second city Chiang Mai. Chartered coach transport
takes the group through Thailand's vast central region and Phitsonoluk
for the final night of the Loi Krathong celebrations. "There, we
have a moonlit dinner cruise in the midst of all those gorgeous
floats on the river," says Morrison. "And the night is alight with
giant natural gas lit lanterns that seem to float all the way to
the moon." |
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Two other features of the central town of Phitsonoluk -- well off
the tourist path, explain the two hosts -- is a restaurant where
you catch your stir fried vegetables mid air. "You have to don an
apron and hat, then wildly fling your arms around to catch the just-booked
spinach. The difficulty is the chef throws it directly from his
wok on the street level, and you are standing on a first story platform,"
Morrison chuckles. The tour group also travels to the remote Northeastern
province of Isan, where Carmack and Morrison chanced on a luxury
Sofitel Hotel complete with German microbrewery in the middle of
"nowhere." |
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"Actually,
nowhere is not a fair term" protests Morrison. "Khon Kaen is in the
heartland of Thailand's silk weaving," he explains, particularly the
hand-woven matmee -- the country's equivalent to Indonesian ikat, but
of an even higher standard. "The design pattern are tie dyed into the
strands, then re-woven into the cloth. It is incredibly labour intensive
and beautiful, and consequently, we are including this in the tour."
On
the food side, Carmack notes that fiery Isan cooking has become all
the trend in cosmopolitan Bangkok these days. "Thai's just cannot seem
to get enough of it," he explains, "a bit like the southern Indian Kerala
dishes' popularity in India's north. But the world hasn't quite figured
this out yet. So this might be peoples' first experience of it."
Carmack
notes that typical Isan dishes are the grilled chicken gai yang, green
papaya salad --"which you can get in Sydney, but not tasting the same"
-- and sticky rice. "You could actually say that Isan lies in the centre
of the sticky rice trail" quips Carmack. He then explains that sticky
rice, unlike standard steamed Jasmine rice, is first soaked for hours,
then literally steamed above water. "Because it clings, it is eaten
with the hand, folded into small balls," he notes. "In Isan they still
generally eat with hands, and not fork and spook, like in the rest of
the kingdom."
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"Thai
food is so incredible," states Carmack. "The vibrant mix of tangy
citrus, hot chilies and sugar or sweet coconut milk, combined with
bitter aspects create complex textural and flavour layers that are
unequalled in other countries. But what I also value equally, is their
sense of hygiene. They are very clean people. From the street foods
eaten on the sidewalks and footpaths, to the store front eateries,
to up-market restaurants, it is all very clean."
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For further
information on Globetrotting Gourmet food tours to Asia, contact San
Michele Travel directly on (+61-2) 9299 1111. Full itineraries are
published on Robert's websites: www.asianfoodtours.com and
www.globetrottinggourmet.com
or San Michele's website www.asiatravel.com.au
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