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| Robert
and Morrison have just returned from two weeks scouting the magical
Hindu island of Bali, looking for the best buys, the most up-market
accommodation, and the classiest cooking classes around. And we
are happy to admit, we found it all! Consequently, we have slightly
revised our original Globetrotting Gourmet® FoodTOUR itinerary,
to take in these new improvements. Our original dates of 30 Aug-9
Sept remain fixed. We're ensuring enough free time for independent
shopping, viewing, and the like, but plenty of planned activity
for those who need or want that helping hand. In any case, you can
easily opt out of selected offerings from our daily itinerary, unless,
of course, we are skipping town for a better resort on that day!
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| Bali
island is great, 90 degrees (30 C) daily, and never a better time
to visit the sites without swarms of tourists upsetting those picture
post card photos! I took along the bestselling book Krakatoa while
there, and was entranced by the silhouette image of volcanoes against
the skyline. Luckily, there is no chance of immediate volcanic eruption
this year (or next!), although the island has had its fair share
of other flare ups to jar their tourist trade. But with tourism
numbers in a slump, deals here have never been better. Prices at
the island's best restaurants are ridiculously low (except for wine
and alcohol), and hand-woven fabrics and batiks have never been
more affordable. |
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on...
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| Number
of nights: 10 |
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meals |
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Day
1 / Saturday 30th August
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O/N
Seminyak |
| Welcome
to the "Island of the Gods!" You will be personally met at
Denpasar airport -- look for a handsome Balinese holding a
sign with your name on it after exiting immigration -- and
you will be whisked off to nearby Seminyak. Rapidly growing
in reputation for its smart and stylish restaurant scene,
Seminyak is both beach resort and a rice paddy village rolled
into one, with bucolic views to match. We've chosen a very
smart boutique/villa accommodation to relax after the trip,
and a complimentary one-hour massage on arrival, or if you
prefer, the next day. |
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At
the hotel, you will also receive an introductory room service
tray of specially selected Balinese treats. Depending on arrival
time, we will meet that evening for a get-acquainted drink,
or the following morning over breakfast.
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Day
2 / Sunday 31st August
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O/N
Seminyak |
| Breakfast
at hotel. We chose Seminyak for its central location, near
the capital Denpasar, and not too close to the touristy southern
beach areas. Because this is a food tour, we thought it fitting
to include a trip to a local ceramics factory to design your
own dinner plate! |
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For lunch, choose from one of three basic Balinese dishes:
burbur ayam (rice porridge with chicken); nasi tim ayam;
or
the classic nasi goreng (fried rice). We'll teach you how
to order in Bahasa Indonesia, the national language,
as well
as how to bargain down a taxi fare. Afterwards there is an
optional drop off at the Bali museum in Denpasar (return
taxi
fares are cheap, depending on your newly-learned bargaining
skills!) or return to the hotel to lay about the pool
and
rest up for the evening. Personally, we think Denpasar gets
a bad rap from the tourist guides: it is strictly off
the
tourist circuit, so its refreshingly local; as Bali's capital
it has the best markets and museums: and its home to
the island's
oldest hotel. Think of Singapore's Raffles before its expensive
restoration. For dinner we trek back to the yesteryear
of
colonial Bali, and the faded glory of rijstaffel -- or rice
table -- the classic Dutch-inspired dish of Indonesia's
archipelago.
Then it's a quick trip to the night market, and back to the
hotel. |
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Day
3 / Monday 1st September
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O/N
Seminyak
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Breakfast
at hotel, then we depart about 8 a.m. to the village of Batubalan
for a 9:30 performance of Balinese dance and music: Barong.
This particular theatre is renowned for its classic training,
and perhaps the best performances on the island. The tale
is the traditional myth of good versus evil, but totally enchanting.
Afterwards we head to the magical Hindu temple of Tanah Lot,
built on a small island directly off shore. This is one of
those Kodak moments not to be missed. |
| We
then have an early afternoon lunch of foods from Indonesia's
leading islands of Sumatra and Java. The evening is free to
take in one of Seminyak's fine dining experiences, and Robert
and Morrison are ready to give recommendations to all. The
hardest part is deciding which restaurant! |
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Day
4 / Tuesday 2nd September
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O/N
Candi Dasa
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| Today
is our cultural day, stopping at charming craft villages,
en route to the pristine East coast. We first stop at the
silver community of Celuk, leaving you to wander down a small
alley of home craftsmen. (We avoid the larger silver outlets
here, as they are over-priced and touristy. Bargain Hard!)
Following that are stops in Gianyar at a painting gallery
and weaving factory to see hand-woven ikat and batik fabric
manufacture. Gianyar is also famous for its babi guling, or
suckling pig. We'll pick up a take-away (or to-go) order to
eat on the bus, before stopping off in nearby Klungkung to
view the famed Kerta Gosa, or Hall of Justice murals. |
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| Tonight's
hotel, Alila Manggis, is so special and deluxe we want to
arrive in plenty of time for optional massage (not included),
just plain sun baking, or afternoon swimming. (The Alila Manggis
has positively the best water temperature of ANY pool in which
we have ever swum.) |
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Tonight the only challenge is to learn how
to eat with your hands -- which is how Balinese traditionally
sup meggibung, a deliciously traditional serving of steamed
rice and complements. South paws will have a doubly-hard
time
of it, but it's all part of the fun to try. Not included
-- but highly recommended -- are Alila's caipirovska
-- a Brazilian
marguerita-related blend of fresh squeezed lime and vodka,
with a crust of sugar rimming the glass. This is our favorite
drink on the island, not withstanding the arak brews made
from the local distilled palm spirit. |
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Day
5 / Wednesday 3rd September
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O/N
Candi Dasa
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It's
an early call for the intrepid, with those taking our optional
morning market tour (price included) meeting promptly at 7
a.m. for a brief breakfast of red rice pudding, tea or coffee.
(Late risers receive this same special breakfast.) Balinese
markets start early, and end early. Those arriving in town
by 9 and 10 are often too late, and the shops look like a
disaster area. Hence our early beginning. This is also the
best time to get photos of Bali's highest peak, Mt Agung,
which last erupted in 1963. (Relax --volcanic explosions are
rarely -- if ever -- unexpected. And there is absolutely no
indication that Mt. Agung is preparing to blow its top again
soon in a Krakatoa-like explosion. By the way, for a surcharge
payable directly to the hotel, the Alila can arrange a 2 a.m.
climb up Mt Agung, having you arrive just in time for sunrise.
The 3000 metre (about 10,000 feet) ascent is only for the
very fit, but not so arduous that special climbing equipment
is required -- outside of good hiking boots, that is. We hear
the descent is the tricky part.)
| At
Amlapura market we visit both a tofu factory, and
see
how fermented soy bean tempeh is produced. Bakso is
one of our favorite hawker foods in Indonesia, and
at
its best, the chicken stock is rich and, the rice noodles
an iridescent blue green (from natural coloring,
not
mold!) and the beef dumplings chewy. We'll treat anyone
who is still hungry to a morning bowl of this traditional
fare, then head back to the hotel around 10:30 for
cooking class, followed by a lunch of our achievements.
This
is our introduction to Balinese ingredients, and learn
how locals blend and mash their various bumbu, or
curry
pastes, using a traditional saucer like mortar and
pestle. In our experience, you need to cook like
a girl to be
successful. Men in these classes invariably grind
so hard that the pumice stone not only darkens their
bumbu pastes, but also makes it gritty. (Thankfully,
the Alila sells "seasoned" mortar and pestles; new
mortars are wont to be too gritty for any use.)
The remaining
afternoon and evening is free, or you can arrange to
tour ancient Tenganan (not included), a nearby
village
so steeped with tradition that villagers who marry
outsiders are banished from the compound. They
also speak an ancient
language used no where else on the island, and uniquely
weave an excruciatingly intricate double ikat known
as geringsing. |
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In
the evening, there is a complimentary hotel shuttle at both
5 and 7 p.m. to nearby Candidasa (Robert and Morrison can
provide you with a list of suggested eateries), or to the
nearby ultra-chic (and très cher) Amankila resort.
Alternatively, stay at our hotel for dinner (not included),
or walk along the beach to a neighboring restaurant. The hotel
shuttle returns approximately 2 hours later, or local transport/taxi
can easily be arranged. (Remember those bargaining skills
we taught you on Day 2!) |
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Day
6 / Thursday 4th September
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O/N
Ubud
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| Breakfast
at hotel, then we check out by 9 a.m. to view some of the
most picturesque rice paddy scenery on the island between
Amlapura,Bebandem, Rendang and Bangli. Our first stop is the
water palace of Tirtagangga. Water has always been a feature
in Balinese life and architecture, and one of the island's
last kings indulged in a fantasy land of early 20th century
water palaces. This is one of three, although the far grander
palace at Ujung, largely destroyed by earthquake, is now under
massive restoration. |
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Time
permitting, we stop briefly for a view from Pugung, then head
to the weaving village of Sidemen, famed for its intricate
songkret fabric, rich in metallic brocade. You have an hour
to view craftsmen weave their wares, with samples widely available
for sale. We plan to arrive in Bali's cultural centre of Ubud
around 3:30, leaving plenty of time for independent orientation
here. Outside of Kuta, Ubud is Bali's most "user-friendly"
town, with shops, hotels, restaurants, and palaces all within
easy walking distance -- or no more than a short bemo or taxi
ride. |
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accommodation was especially chosen because of its central
location, and Robert and Morrison will provide you with a
list of suggested eateries, or join them for dinner (not included).
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Day
7 / Friday 5th September
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O/N
Ubud
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| We
know that Ubud is a place for independent exploration, but
some of the neighbouring craft villages are too far to visit
on your own. After breakfast we head to nearby Mas for a demonstration
of intricate wood carving. Then it is back to Ubud for mid
morning tea with tape cheesecake -- an inspired fusion food
of fermented rice and white chocolate cheesecake on a ginger
cookie crust. |
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Afterwards, you're on your own, but first,
we will show you where to sample a delicious babi guling,
or spit-roasted suckling pig. Lunch is not included, but we'll
help you order if you are still hungry after the cheesecake!
We then gather at 5 p.m. for an early dinner at the celebrated
Mozaic restaurant, where chef Chris Salans is achieving fame
as one of the island's top chefs. Mozaic is more than a restaurant,
and its Art of the Table Boutique includes a commissioned
series of contemporary Balinese tableware. In a special session
for our group, Chris will develop a light tasting menu to
complement each dish. We finish no later than 7 p.m. allowing
time to take in a number of local dance and music festivals
around Ubud: from dance and music held in the sumptuous setting
of the Ubud Palace, to à capella kecak conducted at
various village venues on most nights. (Shows not included
-- about $5 US payable directly at door -- but we will attempt
to arrange shuttle service to each venue; return by taxi.
Please arrange reservations prior to the evening.) |
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Day
8 / Saturday 6th September
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O/N
Lovina
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This
is a very special journey on the spice and rice trail into
the hinterlands, via mountainous Munduk, up to the far north
coast, near Bali's historic capital city of Singaraja. Lunch
is at a coffee plantation perched high atop the mountains,
overlooking verdant valleys to the coast and the ocean. If
we arrive in Lovina early enough, we can arrange transport
to a nearby natural hot spa (not included), although return
travel will be by taxi. |
| On
our last trip, we scoured the restaurants in Lovina -- adding
a few inches to the waist in the process -- until when we
chanced upon a spectacular ocean front restaurant, brand new
and frequented only by locals. (Well, that was the case at
the time of printing!) So its here for dinner, and the fish
is immaculately fresh, caught daily from the neighbouring
village. Combine that with luxurious hotel comfort set amongst
landscaped gardens, and you have the perfect recipe for bliss.
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Day
9 / Sunday 7th September
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O/N
Benoa
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Not
only has Lovina a spectacularly pristine coast, it is also
home to frequent visits by dolphins. While we can't absolutely
guarantee a sighting, it's fun trying! (But locals claim that
on about 90% of the days you will.) This early dawn option
(price about $8-$10 US, payable directly to the boat company)
has you on small boats by 6 a.m. where you sail out to meet
our aquatic friends. Even if the dolphins disappoint, the
sunrise views of Bali and neighboring Java will sure to please
-- so bring your camera (wrapped carefully in a plastic shopping
bag). We also suggest bringing a dry hotel towel to wrap over
your shoulders in the brisk morning, and on your way back,
to hopefully dry off the dolphin splashes. Afterwards it's
breakfast at the hotel, check out, and we're back on the road
by 9:30. We have scheduled a stop at Bali's famed temple on
the lake in central Lake Bratan because of a colourful Hindu
celebration there today. Nearby, the less squeamish may want
to drape live bats, snakes, opossums, and whatever around
their necks for picture-perfect photo opportunities bonding
with the animals. (And the locals will appreciate you too,
upon payment! But don't ask Morrison to hold the camera --
he hates snakes!) |
| Lunch
is at a very special place, the spiritual Puri Taman Sari
near the temple of Mengwi. This is a home compound, with select
villas for overnight guests, nestled amongst a working farm
of rice paddies. Our host Agung Prana is president of the
Bali tourism association, and instigator of the famed "artificial
reef" wherein electrical surges are emitted onto an underwater
lattice frame work to regenerate coral reefs destroyed by
dynamite fishing. In the late afternoon/early evening we arrive
at coastal Benoa. We know you had a long drive today, so we've
scheduled a very local -- but special -- banquet of authentic
Balinese dishes. |
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Day
10 / Monday 8th September
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O/N
Benoa
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| As
mentioned prior, the early bird gets the worm when it comes
to Balinese markets. We are therefore scheduling Heinz von
Holzen's 6 a.m. market tour as optional (price included),
but you would surely hate to miss it. He first scouts us through
the vegetable stalls of nearby Jimbaran, following with a
tour to the fish market sold directly from the boats. |
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We return to his Benoa cooking school by 9a.m.
for breakfast, when the remaining sleepy heads re-join in
the events. Plan to work like a horse this morning, learning
just under 50 recipes in a few hours! Heinz reviews the fundamentals
of Balinese cooking, starting with base "curry" pastes and
sambals, followed by a quick succession of dishes made with
each. Afterwards it's lunch, and the remaining afternoon free
to luxuriate in your deluxe villas by the pool, head to the
beach, with access via nearby Bumbu Bali restaurant, or take
a complementary hotel shuttle to the Nusa Dua Galleria for
shopping. In the evening we regather for a very special, romantic
sunset beach dinner on Jimbaran. This is our farewell meal,
and one we promise to be extra special. |
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Day
11 / Tuesday 9th September
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departures
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Today
is our final goodbye, with the tour officially ending after
breakfast. Please advise us of your flight details, so we
can provide a complementary shuttle to Denpasar airport.
Rooms
are reserved until 6 p.m. today, allowing you to leisurely
pack, afternoon relaxation or optional last-minute shopping
at Kuta/Legian.
We're intending having lunch ourselves
at the famed Poppie's restraunt at Kuta and would be pleased
to have your company.
For departures in the evening/post midnight, a 50% surcharge
will apply. Morning hotel pick up should be arranged in
advance for those extending the tour with "The Bali Experience."
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PRICE
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US$1495
/ AUD$2195.00 per person
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based
on double occupancy/twin share
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Single
room supplement US$400 / A$700
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We
at Globetrotting Gourmet® FoodTOURS are continually
re-evaluating all aspects of our journey, from the restaurants
and hotels we choose, to the museum and other cultural
stops included. This enables us to offer you the best
and most up-to-date features on Bali. Consequently, specific
itinerary details of this tour may vary at the last minute.
We reserve this right to make such modifications to enhance
our tour content. Accommodation
in international 4-5 star deluxe comfort throughout,
except where noted otherwise. Hotel breakfasts
included
daily, and most meals. All beverages are additional. Price
includes admission fees and transfers, except where
otherwise
noted. Prices include all internal Bali domestic travel,
but do not include Denpasar international departure
taxes,
visas, passport and other documentation fees, items of
personal nature (e.g. laundry, etc.), nor overweight
baggage charges.
We strongly recommend that all travelers carry travel insurance.
Land segment prices are based on double occupancy,
but not
including airfare from Australia or overseas.
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