There are more than 2,000 pagodas, temples and monasteries to choose from -- all built during the Bagan Dynasty, founded by King Anawrahta in 1044. Bagan is a truly mesmerizing destination, the favorite of many a seasoned traveler.

First visit the glorious and massive Shwezigon, pagoda. Shopaholics won't want to miss the numerous vendors on the approach to the temple.

We'll also visit the breath-taking murals of Gubyaukgyi, then Htilo Minlo -- just to whet your appetite, plus more. After lunch, return to the Ananda Temple Festival on the full moon day. We'll show you how to arrange transport back to the hotel -- it's not far, and the cost is cheap -- allowing you time to explore the festival at leisure. Dinner not included today.

Bagan is not only famous for the profusion of ancient temples, but also for its artistic handicrafts. After lunch, watch the time consuming and intricate production of quality lacquer ware. (Some of the finest are flexible, and made around bamboo and twisted horse hair.) Dinner tonight is at a local marionette theatre.

Today travel further a-field, to Chauk and Salay. These are destinations rarely included in group tours, and it is a rare glimpse of traditional and authentic Burmese life. We first take a river boat to Chauk, and visit one of Myanmar's best regional markets. Chauk is also home to a manufacturer of the country's tasty tamarind flakes, which we also visit. (Be sure to save lots of spare room in an empty bag; they are deliciously addictive!) Then on to Salay, home of some 50 monasteries in a town of only 7000 persons. It is a unique chance to see untouched colonial architecture, and a particularly beautiful 19th century wooden temple. Picnic lunch included today. Time permitting, en route home we'll stop at a palm sugar plantation. At sunset we've arranged a long horse cart ride though the monuments. Dinner not included today.

Inle Lake is famous for its Inthas (native lake-dwellers) who have a unique way of rowing with one leg. At the northern end is a small town called Nyaung Shwe, the gateway to Inle Lake, from where we will take a boat to reach our hotel. As roads along the lake are basic, most travel is still done on the water. Because the floating hotels tend to be very drafty this time of year, we've chosen a traditional property directly facing the lake (3 ½ star), and boasting a beautiful garden.

In the afternoon visit the five Buddha images of Phaung Daw U, which are the holiest in Inle Lake. The images have been gilded in so much gold they look like balls of solid gold. There is a unique monastery on the lake where the local monks have trained cats to jump through hoops, and consequently, it's now affectionately known as the "jumping cat monastery." Because travel on the lake by night is difficult, we've organized an early dinner. Afterwards, you will be lulled by the lap lap lapping of the waves.

Upon arrival, we'll have a tea house lunch of northern Burmese noodles, then drive to the former colonial hill station of Maymyo, now known as Pyin Oo Lwin. Founded in 1896, the town was a favorite summer retreat for British colonists, and there are many remaining mock Tudor and English cottages from these olden days. Not surprisingly, is often considered amongst the most beautiful and serene parts of Myanmar. Located 1000m/3400 ft above sea level, the climate is much cooler here, so please dress accordingly

On arrival in Pyin Oo Lwin, transfer to your hotel to freshen-up. The bungalow accommodation adjoins Kandawgyi botanical gardens, from where we'll watch sunset. A delicious South Indian dinner follows, prepared by a third generation Indo-Burmese family. (When we last left Myanmar, we chanced upon an English couple who raved about the restaurant, saying it was better than any meal they tasted in India!) You'll be delighted by the anecdotes told by the family, and especially of their days cooking at the old Candacraig Hotel.

Our hotel in Mandalay is the best address in town, facing the moats of the former palace. More importantly, the chef promises to pamper our group! In the late afternoon visit Shwe Kyaung, or the Golden Palace Monastery, famous for its intricate woodcarvings. This monastery is a fine example of a traditional Burmese wooden architecture, but more importantly it is the last standing remnant from the original wooden royal palace. (It was moved here before World War 2, and consequently missed the fire bombing.) Afterwards, see the best view of this ancient capital from the top of Mandalay Hill, while the sun slowly sets. In the evening, we'll head to one of Mandalay's most delicious restaurants.

In the afternoon we'll regroup for a cooking demonstration of typical northern Burmese dishes, and an early dinner of generous tastings. In the evening, walk to the nearby youq-the pwe, or puppet theatre, which is considered the finest in the country. This is the best place to buy local puppets, and they are surprisingly affordable, and make great gifts.

Optional event: Moustache Brothers.

For those not too tired, join us on an optional evening to the satirical Moustache Brothers cabaret. The show ranges from slapstack to cornball, to biting satire. (The group have previously been banned for heir political activities.) We'll arrange taxis from the hotel until the show's finish.

After breakfast, say goodbye to Mandalay, and hello again to Yangon.

Lunch not included today.

Optional Extension and Upgrade: 12-14 January Stay two nights in Yangon and we'll upgrade you to The Strand Hotel, plus provide you with a private guide for the extra day. With 32 all-suite rooms, and a pedigree to match, this 5-star+++ hotel is Yangon's finest. The Strand literally oozes with history. HIGHLY recommended.