This hot and spicy salad of slightly unripe, tart fruits is popular throughout the Indonesian archipelago, and north up the Malay Peninsula. Vary the fruits depending on local availability, ensuring that they are firm and crisp, including some that are slightly sour like Granny Smith apples. Typical offerings include green mango and papaya, plus pineapple, cucumber, carrot and apple. Even thin slices of potato can be added. Orange, pomelo and grapefruit segments are another option, although grapefuit introduces a slightly bitter tang. The following is an easy variation for Western kitchens.

For the vegetables and fruits
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and sliced
2 apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 pineapple, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
fresh lemon juice (optional)
for the sauce
2 tablespoons tamarind puree
1/4 cup (about 120 g/4 oz) palm or coconut sugar
pinch salt
to garnish
1 medium fresh red chili, seeded and very thinly sliced
1 fresh lime, cut into wedges

Prepare the vegetables and fruits, refrigerating until ready to use. Do not toss together until the last minute. Note that potatoes should either be prepared at the last minute to prevent discoloration, or soak in cold water until ready to use. Likewise, cut apple will discolour unless rubbed with lemon juice. Soak the prepared carrots to improve taste and crispiness. If using canned pineapple, buy chunks or rings in natural juice, instead of syrup; rinse prior to use.)

For the sauce, stir together the tamarind puree and sugar until the sugar dissolves and it resembles a thick sauce; add salt. Note, if the sugar comes in a hard log, scrape or crush it first. If palm sugar is unavailable, substitute white sugar.

Toss the fruits together and place on separate plates. Drizzle with the sauce, and top with the red chili slices. Serve a quarter of lime to squeeze atop.

Serves 4 to 6

Note: tamarind puree is available from select groceries. If unavailable, combine a gulf-ball size of tamarind pulp in 1/2 cup tepid water. Swirl with your hands to create a puree, then strain. (If the pulp is very firm and dry, use hotter water.)

© Robert Carmack