Nem cuon song / Goi cuon

Use whatever herbs and fillings are convenient, ensuring that you do not add too much, lest the rice paper sheets burst during rolling. Variations include substituting thin slices roasted pork loin for the shrimp; or bean sprouts and dried beancurd skin in a vegetarian roll.

12 sheets round rice paper, about 9 inch (23 cm) diameter, softened 12 medium shrimp (prawns), cooked, peeled and de-veined 3 1/2 oz (100 g) packet dried rice vermicelli (bun) 12 Chinese chives (flat/garlic chives), cut into thirds, crosswise 12 leaves butter (Boston) lettuce 12 leaves fresh mint, preferably peppermint

Soften the rice sheets by soaking each sheet, one at a time, in a pan of warm water. (A shallow roasting pan works well). Do not leave in the water to soak, rather, pass it through the water for a couple seconds, pat dry, then drain flat on the cloth. Leave for about 15 seconds, or until pliable -- then use immediately. If stacking, place sheets of waxed paper in between, as the greater volume of water used in this variation may over-sodden the sheets.

Soak dried noodles in hot water for about 10 minutes, depending on thickness, or until just tender; drain. Alternatively, plunge dried noodles into a pot of boiling water and cook for 2-4 minutes; drain and refresh under cold water, drain again, and pat dry. Fresh noodles can be used directly from the packet.

Cut the chives crosswise into thirds or in half, each about 4 inches (10 cm) long. Remove the cores from the lettuce leaves. If using larger leaves, cut them about 2 inch (5 cm) wide.

Lay one softened rice sheet at a time on a damp cloth. Lay a coreless lettuce leaf on the softened rice paper, positioned lengthwise in front of you, and slightly off center, toward the bottom of the sheet. Top with a couple of mint leaves, and 1 heaped tablespoon rice noodles. Roll up tightly as described on previous page, folding first from the bottom up to enfold the ingredients, then bring the two sides inward; then roll to make a neat "cigar." Place 2 shrimp halves skin side down toward the top of the sheets, so that they clearly show through the final layer. Likewise, before the final roll, arrange 2 or 3 chive shoots to poke out about 1/2 inch (1/2 cm) from the folded end.

Cover with lightly moistened paper and plastic wrap to prevent the rice sheets from drying out. Serve with commercial fish sauce or bean sauce, or Vietnamese Table Sauce/Nuoc Cham.
Makes 12 rolls

© Robert Carmack

This hot and spicy salad of slightly unripe, tart fruits is popular throughout the Indonesian archipelago, and north up the Malay Peninsula. Vary the fruits depending on local availability, ensuring that they are firm and crisp, including some that are slightly sour like Granny Smith apples. Typical offerings include green mango and papaya, plus pineapple, cucumber, carrot and apple. Even thin slices of potato can be added. Orange, pomelo and grapefruit segments are another option, although grapefuit introduces a slightly bitter tang. The following is an easy variation for Western kitchens.

For the vegetables and fruits
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and sliced
2 apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 pineapple, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
fresh lemon juice (optional)
for the sauce
2 tablespoons tamarind puree
1/4 cup (about 120 g/4 oz) palm or coconut sugar
pinch salt
to garnish
1 medium fresh red chili, seeded and very thinly sliced
1 fresh lime, cut into wedges

Prepare the vegetables and fruits, refrigerating until ready to use. Do not toss together until the last minute. Note that potatoes should either be prepared at the last minute to prevent discoloration, or soak in cold water until ready to use. Likewise, cut apple will discolour unless rubbed with lemon juice. Soak the prepared carrots to improve taste and crispiness. If using canned pineapple, buy chunks or rings in natural juice, instead of syrup; rinse prior to use.)

For the sauce, stir together the tamarind puree and sugar until the sugar dissolves and it resembles a thick sauce; add salt. Note, if the sugar comes in a hard log, scrape or crush it first. If palm sugar is unavailable, substitute white sugar.

Toss the fruits together and place on separate plates. Drizzle with the sauce, and top with the red chili slices. Serve a quarter of lime to squeeze atop.

Serves 4 to 6

Note: tamarind puree is available from select groceries. If unavailable, combine a gulf-ball size of tamarind pulp in 1/2 cup tepid water. Swirl with your hands to create a puree, then strain. (If the pulp is very firm and dry, use hotter water.)

© Robert Carmack