Oysters are invariably best in the cold months, Red Tide periods excepted.   So while visiting America's Pacific Northwest, we wallowed in coastal estuary oysters, corn-flouring them in polenta and topping with coleslaw to make the world's best po' boy sandwich. We spike ours with hot English mustard, and its hybrid cabbage remoulade never tasted finer.

Tiny Olympia points now compete against trendy, small Kumamoto oysters (Crassostrea sikamea). Because Kumamotos are notoriously slow growing, harvesters have taken a different tack, cultivating them before fully grown, making them a thrifty competition to Washington native Olympias. (And at $2. per freshly shucked Olympia oyster we paid at upmarket Elliott's on Seattle's waterfront, the locals are easily pricing themselves out of the value-for-money category.) Olympias real interest is being the coast's only true native oyster -- as opposed to the Pacific gigas variety, which like Kumamotos, were introduced from Japan. Surprisingly, much of the Kumamoto stock, which was first introduced to Humboldt Bay, California after World War 2, has since inter-bred with local Pacifics.   But because Kumamoto oysters are now extinct in their native Japan, US scientists are keenly seeking pure Kumamoto species for selective breeding.  

In Australia, the celebrated native oyster variety there is the small "Sydney Rock" (Saccostrea commercialis) of New South Wales, but whose seed beds are likewise endangered by encroaching Pacific oysters.  Australians claim these small "rockies" peak in summer -- and Christmas sales skyrocket along with price.   But summer estuary water never smells (or tastes) as clean as cold winter ocean water. I still need convincing. One Australian practice we hope never to see repeated overseas is the sale of pre-shucked oysters on the half shell.   Even bottled oysters are preferable to this exercise in producer convenience over consumer quality. For further reading, we enjoyed the book Oyster by Nicolette Stasko, from HarperCollins in Australia.

While in Washington state, we were especially perplexed to buy Willapa Bay Pacific oysters in the jar (convenient for oyster stew!) labelled "extra small," although their girth would make a male porn star blush. (But then again, oysters are hermaphroditic...) These were oysters on steroids, and up and down the coast we continued to be surprised by the size of shucked shells lining the fishing co-ops. Consumer groups might well want to re-address sizing specifications, because at the moment "small" and "extra small" means nothing in this part of the world.   We did like these behemoths steamed in the shell, however, as served in a local chain restaurant, Mo's on the Oregon coast. Dipped in salty drawn butter was a treat. Raw, they prove too big a chew.

© Robert Carmack

Oyster Po' Boy Sandwiches with Spicy Coleslaw

spicy coleslaw (recipe follows)
1 large egg, beaten
1 cup milk
1 cup all-purpose (plain) flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cayenne or red pepper
1 cup finely ground polenta or cornmeal
1/4 teaspoon ground pepper
1 cup (250 g) clarified butter or ghee
2 or 3 large oysters per person, drained

Prepare the spicy coleslaw recipe below and set aside.

For the oysters, combine egg and milk in a small bowl and add the oysters; set aside. In two bowls, sift together the flour and half the salt and cayenne; and separately the cornmeal and half the salt and cayenne. Heat the butter in a frying pan until hot but not smoking. Remove oysters with a slotted spoon, and dip dredge each in the seasoned flour. Individually dip each again in the egg and milk, then immediately in the cornmeal to coat. Carefully place in the hot fat and fry gently for about 2 minutes, turning once. Do not crowd. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel.

To assemble, slice baguettes lengthwise, add a spoonful of the coleslaw to coat, then top with the hot oysters. Serve immediately.

Spicy Coleslaw

1/4 finely shredded cabbage, preferably Savoy
1 whole egg + 1 egg yolk, at room temperature
Salt and white pepper, to taste
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tablespoon hot English mustard
1 teaspoon prepared horseradish

Finely shred the cabbage, but do not rinse; toss with 1 tablespoon salt. Leave in a colander for at least 15 minutes to drain.

Place the egg and yolk, with the salt and pepper, into a food processor or blender and whirl for 30 seconds. Very slowly dribble in the vegetable oil, followed by the olive oil, while the machine is running. It should be very thick . (If not, you can salvage the mixture by beginning again with a whole egg and dribbling in the original mixture in place of the pure oil.) Add the lime, mustard and horseradish, taste and adjust seasoning with additional salt and pepper to taste.

Pat the cabbage dry with paper towel to remove salt, but do not rinse. Toss the cabbage with the mayonnaise and lightly spoon onto the bread. Top with cooked oysters and serve immediately. Dish up remaining coleslaw on the side.

© Robert Carmack