THE COURIER-MAIL - BRISBANE
DATE, 18 August 2003 by Karen Milliner
Gourmet on the go.
SPEND some time chatting with Robert Carmack about his travels and you soon realise why he chose "the globetrotting gourmet" as his business moniker.
This is a man who could take you to the brewery where the Japanese emperor's private soy sauce collection is made, knows the best eatery in Chiang Mai in Thailand for a khao soi curry or, if you're really feeling adventurous, he could lead you to a tiny restaurant in rural Vietnam to watch the chef whip up a meal of multiple courses of cobra.

But a desire to eat snake is not a pre-requisite for signing up for one of Carmack's Asian gourmet tours. All you need is a passion for food – and for fun.
"We like to think of it as doing the sorts of things you'd do if you had a bunch of local friends in the country taking you around," he says.
"We go to food producers, farmers, markets, see how food is grown, we don't do a bunch of hotel cooking classes. I detest the idea of going to a country just to do cooking classes every day and then be exhausted because I've done that – they are really tiring. And they all kind of blur; you don't really remember any of the dishes.
"On our tours the school is on the street, it's in a restaurant, on the plate, and then you go and put it together in a classroom, and you can say, 'That's it, that's what I ate last night'. "
Carmack, 50, runs the tours with fellow Globetrotting Gourmet director Morrison Polkinghorne, 37. Both have food backgrounds and recently wowed the audience at the Brisbane Masterclass with their knowledge of fish and soy sauces.
Carmack was born in Camas, Washington, on America's northwest coast, and after studying journalism and briefly flirting with the notion of becoming a newspaper film critic, headed to France for culinary credentials at the La Varenne cooking school.
Looking back, he credits his family with fostering his love of gastronomy.
"When I was at university my grandmother would call me and say, 'What do you want me to cook for you when you come home?' My mother would do the same," he recalls.
"It was like they were in competition. My mother would say, 'I'll make you a cherry pie,' and Grandma would say, 'I'll fry you some chicken. What else do you want? Apple dumplings?'
"Food was for us a convivial celebration. I still think how wonderful Thanksgiving is in America because it's like this medieval banquet where everything is served all at once. You're breaking bread together and it's a wonderful celebration."
Carmack migrated to Australia in 1987, after working as a food researcher and editor with the late American food guru James Beard and on the Time-Life The Good Cook cookbook series.
He's a much in-demand food stylist both in Australia and overseas (he's done TV commercials for KFC in Beijing and Haagen-Dazs in Japan) and has written four cookbooks of his own: Fondue!, Desserts with Spirit!, Thai Home Cooking (with Sompon Nabnian) and the soon-to-be-released Vietnamese Home Cooking.
Polkinghorne is Tasmania-born. He grew up and served his chef's apprenticeship in Alice Springs before wandering into kitchens in Adelaide and Sydney.
While he's still passionate about cooking ("and eating" he laughs), he's taken off the apron and pursued his other love for interior design, weaving and manufacturing 18th century French trimmings.
"Cooking for a career, I realised, was not what I wanted to do," he says. "So on the food tours we also visit factories and artisan places, like the silk-weaving village of Pak Thong Chai in Thailand."
While Carmack and Polkinghorne have criss-crossed Asia extensively for nearly two decades, it was only last year that they decided to formally enter the burgeoning food tour market.
"People kept coming up and saying to us, 'Where do you go, where do you stay, what do you like to do?' and while we've organised things before we decided to bite the bullet and link up with a tour wholesaler," Carmack says.
"We try to make the tours a bit indulgent, so instead of getting off the plane and being stuffed with a bunch of hotel food, we organise massages for people to relax, and then get out and do the sort of things you'd do with a bunch of local friends."
They keep groups to a maximum of about 16, and have learned from experience that it's best to be on the ground a few days before a group arrives to iron out any last minute hiccups.
"We had a minor crisis in Thailand last year when the hotel we were supposed to be staying in we found had just become a dump," Carmack recalls.
"So we found another one that was opening the next day and I said to them, 'Great, we'll be the first group in your hotel.' They said 'No, no, we're sold out,' and I said 'We'll pay cash,' and they said "OK, done.' Money talks."
 Robert Carmack and Morrison Polkinghorne's upcoming Globetrotting Gourmet food tours include Bali (from August 30), Thailand (October 31) and Vietnam (March 28, next year). Visit www.asianfoodtours.com or contact San Michele Travel (Australia only) 1800 222 244.

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