Christmas has always been my favourite time of year - not only because it is a season of many weeks instead of just one day, but especially because it combines the spirit of giving, while sharing over the table as well. Needless to say, the key to an Asian-themed Christmas is practicality. Sometimes I create a little fusion, such as my marriage of rojak (salad) with a typically Thai yam (salad) slathered in sweet and sour tamarind sauce and topped with peanuts and coconut. Or by taking candied ginger and fusing that with a European dark chocolate fondue.

I do all the slicing and dicing ahead of time, and little last-minute fiddling. Likewise, many of my dishes are cold or room temperature, keeping cooking to a minimum. I arrange my Christmas meal first around drinks and nibbles. First beverages are invariably fizzy Champagne, with a sweet aperitif like white port a great alternative. Throughout the meal, I continue with champagne - after all, this is a very special repast - plus fizzy freshly squeezed lime soda or a refreshing pandan drink for children and those needing to drive home afterwards.

A great stand-up appetiser is a Thai yam of orange (or even Mandarin) segments filled with a teaspoon of pork mince, then slathered with a sweet and sour tamarind sauce. Even easier, I thickly slice star fruit, and top with the same tamarind sauce, plus sprinkle with toasted peanuts and coconuts. Simpler yet, and a perennial inclusion at most any dinner I give, are salty brine olives. Just drain, then stir in a tablespoon of North African chilli paste or Thai chilli sauce, plus tiny bits of lemon and a coating of olive oil. Delicious and so simple. Be sure to strategically place a bowl for pits.

At this year's Christmas table, I begin with cooling, fresh spring rolls - variously filled with rice noodles and fresh noodles - plus shrimp for some, and bean curd skin for my vegetarian friends. These are served variously - and most simply - with a great boutique soy sauce (such as Kwong Woh Hing from Singapore, which I rank with the world's best) or Vietnamese nuoc cham (fish sauce), or even a salted bean sauce dip. At the same time, I may offer a deliciously refreshing Thai yam of rambutans - decorated with bright red and yellow unpeeled rambutans for seasonal colour.

For the main course, I am quickly back to the kitchen to make a stir fried rice with an impressive difference: pack steamed rice in a large bowl, layered with a delicious stir-fry of bright shrimp, shiitake mushrooms and lotus seeds. It unmoulds beautifully at the table and makes for an extraordinary centrepiece. Better yet, all the prep work can be done ahead, and the steamed rice kept warm in an electric rice cooker until ready to assemble.

For the accompanying main course, I individually plate servings with a half or two of lobster grilled in a spicy tropical rougail sauce. The marinade combines flavours of turmeric and citrus, garlic and chilli. It's stunning, especially when complemented by Vietnamese sweet pickled onions.

For dessert, nothing is speedier than a simple melted chocolate fondue served with chunks of candied ginger. You don't need a fondue pot for this - merely melt your chocolate at the stove, and pour into individual bowls or ramekins. If you don't have enough bowls, have couples share; it's so romantic. And for the parting drink: Vietnamese coffee. In Vietnam they roast their coffee in butter to espresso strength. It's incredibly rich, made in individual filters that drip slowly into small bistro glasses. It's typically sweetened with condensed milk, and is equally delicious iced, or hot.

Robert Carmack's latest book, Vietnamese Home Cooking is available now through Periplus. He is also author of Thai Home Cooking and Fondue, from the same publisher. For more information, his website can be found at www.globetrottinggourmet.com