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ARCHIVES

Bangkok's State Tower and Dome hosted its second Epicurean Maters of the World in February. With 7 headline Michelin 3 star chefs plus one Michelin 2 star (but previously 3 star rated) cooking a one million baht gala dinner, plus other food festivities over a week, this was the place to be.

www.epicurenmasters.com Dome is renowned for its 63rd floor open air restaurant at Sirocco, and the even higher indoor eatery Mezzaluna. But with weekend waiting lists of several months at Sirocco, try their newer, second open air eatery, Breeze. The menu is Hong Kong influenced seafood, and will top our must-go list when we next head to Bangkok.

State Tower's all-suite lebua hotel is also set to for a revamp, with new bathrooms in every room. A posh lobby refit now greets guests -- an improvement from the previous reception. It's only getting better and better. www.lebua.com

Dishing & Spooning for Bali

We scoured the restaurants of Bali -- adding a few inches to the waist in the process -- sampling the freshest local fish and lobster, fattened foie gras and recherché foodie imports on this "island of the gods.”

Despite Bali's tragic tourism crisis in 2002, this remains a great destination. The local Hindu population (some 95% of the island's population) literally ooze with gentility and hospitality. And despite its fixed exchange rated with the US dollar, eating here is still one of the world's cheapest fine dining experiences. (Wines and alcohol are another matter!) As for hawker food stalls, the prices are almost laughable. Where else in the world would you get crisply roasted suckling pig for a dollar? Surely the island's finest restaurant experience is Seminyak and particularly Kafe Warisan … (read on)

And for upland visitors to the central region near Ubud, join us as we traipse through the restaurant scene there. There will be some shocks and surprises. Our friends are equally divided whether they prefer Ubud's Mozaic… (read on)

For those heading to London: Until August there is an extraordinary collection of avant-garde Soviet revolutionary porcelain at the Hermitage Rooms in Somerset House. Entitled Circling the Square, these strident propaganda designs in Futurist and Cubist style, depict themes such as agrarian reform, industrialization, even the Red Army. (A Tea service seems to stand at attention!). While the imperial factory ran from 1744 to 1917, the glory days of this revolutionary style stopped by 1924. www.hermitagerooms.com or www.somerset-house.org.uk We're always keen to explore European influences on Asia, so we were even more excited to hear London's Victoria & Albert museum exploring Asia's influence on the West. "This is the first time there was a real world trade, "co-curator Amin Jaffer boasts, perhaps forgetting the ancient Spice Road. "This was the first globalisation." Alas, trade here deals preponderantly with India, China and Japan to the West, while Southeast Asia rates relatively little.

For those who missed Encounters, which closed in early December, there is a book to accompany the exhibit: Encounters: the meeting of Asia and Europe 1500-1800. Edited by Jaffer and Anna Jackson, we were able to locate it both on the V&A website, and more cheaply through Amazon

“Charging up" is the new catch call at hotels these days.

A friend running an upmarket B&B informs me that seminars encourage the principal – from an extra charge for mid morning check in, to more money for softer pillows. Get ready for the consumer back lash. On a recent stay at the Victoria Hoi An in Vietnam, we were incredulously asked to pay US$5 for a bucket of ice to accompany our room service dinner. We’d love to hear your own feelings on the subject.

On a recent trip to Baltimore’s Marriott Waterfront,

we were appalled at their $3 per day charge for use of the in-room safe. Here’s looking forward to the day when a clever liability lawyer catches them for not supplying theft-free rooms. To be fair to the Marriott, they made up with their great service sending me back a forgotten camera battery charger. Not only that, they sent it return courier for free. In this age when hotels are being encouraged to “price up” for everything from down pillows to early check in, this is the sort of service that will bring us back. More on Baltimore...

When we hear the terms “residual sugar” and “Asian cooking” in the same breath, we usually run the opposite direction.

Personally, we savor a dry pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, or even an old-vine grenache to quaff with SE Asian and Chinese cooking alike.

(Syrah or shiraz tends to be too tannic, however.) But this white has us drinking it by the case – and little wonder at its cost. From Hungerford Hill in the Hunter Valley near Sydney, Australia, is a new range of smartly packaged, cleverly named, moderately-priced wines that are extremely drinkable.

The Fishcage sauvignon blanc chardonnary blend has just enough sugar to stand up to chili dishes, so we’re back to drinking white wine again..

Better yet, despite Australia’s long, hot drought, they've controlled the alcohol content to a standard 12.5%

2003 Fishcage White

what about adding ice to beer? We were first tempted by the idea on a 110F -plus (40+ C) day in Nogales Mexico, just south of Tucson, Arizona. We spied the locals doing it -- mugs chock-full of ice. It's a far sight tastier than low-alcohol brew, but probably equally diluted. And it's a guaranteed cold buzz. Great idea to try at your next sunny holiday destination, while escaping winter at home.

We recently waxed lyrical about Beirut chef Dominique Ferchaud's
cauliflower granita, only later to chance upon Heston Blumenthal's egg and bacon ice cream, which wins him accolades at The Fat Duck in Bray, Berkshire. This led us to some other unusual, albeit less than salubrious sounding, Vietnamese dishes spotted in Hanoi restaurants:

• Fried fallopian tubes with butter
• Braised bull's prick with medicinal herbs
• Civet cat entrails served as consommé
• Clear pigeon head soup with duck beak
• and our favorite: cat meat stewed in the manner of dog meat.

We ponder which are destined to become timeless classics? After such anatomically correct dishes, we can only counterpart them with these fractured offerings spotted in Saigon:

• Deep fried crap
• Mixed fart Salad
• Chicken crap corn soup
• Lout salad
• and the scariest: Deep feared eel

Appears the apparatchik order better English in the north.

(By the way, a special thanks to Helen Bauch and Gaynor Reid for sending us the above offerings.)

Visiting
la belle province?

One of Montreal's more exceptional restaurants is the decidedly down-market Au Pied de Cochon, or pig's foot, which boasts a menu of fattened goose liver foie gras and pigs' feet dishes of every ilk. The house specialty is a whole fattened liver baked in a boned-out pork shank. Another sinfully basic Quebec specialty is putine, a messy-looking plate of crisp French fries slathered with brown gravy and fresh cheese curd. At Pied de Cochon they gluttonously top putine with marrow-rich chunks of goose liver. Foie gras has so rarely been brought down to its peasant origins. But it's a get down, get dirty experience to be savored.

Au Pied de Cochon
536 rue Duluth Est
Montreal, Quebec
(514) 281 1114
aupieddecochon@
qc.aira.com

We’re old enough to remember Asia when tipping was the exception, not the rule. Indeed, the concept still prevails in large swathes, most notably in Japan and Singapore, and to some extent in most of rural Southeast Asia. The problem with tipping is two fold: first, it becomes expected, which leads to businesses refusing to pay their employees, as the bosses presume the staff will make do on tips. And secondly, it distorts income, where a school teacher or even a village physician earns less than a hotel bellboy. So we were ecstatic to note that the Sofitel chain in Vietnam maintains a “no tipping” policy at all of their hotels. A simple thank you and smile suffices. And the return? A happy staff earning enough income without becoming “dependant on the kindness of strangers.” In Vietnam, the Sofitel maintains 5 star properties in Hanoi, Dalat and Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), while parent company Accor hosts Novotel and Mercure properties for the budget conscious. As Governor Arnie says “I’ll be back.”

First introduced to us by a thymus-deprived friend who needs iodine, Valere Kelp Pepper is a bit of a misnomer. The taste of this dried kelp is slightly salty, and definitely not spicy. But we love it on our instant noodles, and it has a positive affinity to fish. (Caution: when we added too much on a plate of spaghetti, it turned a bit slimy.) Giant macrocystis pyrifera kelp is hand harvested in the pure ocean waters of Akaroa Harbour, Tory Channel and the Chatham Islands, then naturally dried after picking. It’s rich in minerals, vitamins, and trace elements, plus abundant in iodine and potassium. The Valere family claim that their dried kelp is the secret to great fish and chips. valere@xtra.co.nz

Dien Bien Phu turns 50

2004 marks the 50th anniversary of Dien Bien Phu. As every French student learns, 7 May, 1954 is the date that the Vietnamese defeated the French in the country’s decisive battle to end colonialism in Southeast Asia. Sadly, 1954 did not mark the end of war in the region, and even after the fall of Saigon in 1975, the former colonies of Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia experienced a further two decades of privation. In the 1990s Vietnam began opening its borders to both tourism and investment, in a policy of Doi Moi,. It was not until 1994, however, that the US lifted its remaining trade embargo against its former enemy.
Dien Bien Phu is now a popular tourist destination, with two flights daily on Viet Nam airlines from Hanoi. The name means Chief Frontier Post, and although the region is cut off from much of the country by majestic mountain ranges, it maintains a strategic location near the Lao border, and just 75 miles/120 km from China. Consequently, French General Henri Navarre reasoned that a build up of his forces here would strangle Viet Minh transport routes to the south, and likewise prevent assistance to the Pathet Lao guerrilla fighters west across the border. This left the communist Vietnamese with little alternative but to fight.
After a 56 day siege under the direction of Ho Chi Minh’s right hand man and chief strategist General Vo Nguyen Giap, he outmanoeuvred the French troops under Colonel de Castries. The Viet Minh dug extensive tunnels into the area, and launched wave after wave of attacks. Finally on 7 May, 1954, the French surrendered, but at the cost of 25,000 Vietnamese lives versus 3,000 French souls. One of the world’s most decisive battles was over.
	Surprisingly, the battle took place several days after French and Vietnamese delegates had already begun meeting in Geneva to negotiate the end of French rule. This victory hastened the French withdrawal, and ensured favourable terms for Vietnam, although a year later the country divided into North and South. The rest is history….

Summer Beach Wines

With most of the world heading into the throes of summer, it's time to resurrect a perennial complaint: why don't Australian wineries make more good-quality "beach wine" for hot weather? Most are too big and robust -- which would be considered rare praise in other countries. Even drunk straight from the fridge, crisp whites become leaden under just a few minutes glare of the torpid sun. Occasionally, we've taken to cheap Portuguese vinho verdhe in desperation. That was until we chanced upon a delicious colombard from Joe Grilli, under his Primo Estate Label. It's official nomenclature is La Bien Dina, presumably to counter European Union legal restrictions. On especially hot days, drink it on the rocks, which is an improvement over wine spritzers diluted with seltzer. A gorgeous wine considering its under A$15 price. And oh, it's screw top as well.


	We're regularly looking for tipplers to buy by the case and consume at reasonable cost. These days, too many bargain-priced Australians taste like cheap Beaujolais with overwrought body: too forced, too cheeky, and why bother? Leconfield Coonawarra 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, on the other hand, initially strikes exactly opposite. At a hefty 14% alcohol, we first shrugged it off as too big, too oaky, and just too much. Yet the second glass improved incredibly after breathing (the wine, not me), and the remaining half bottle still good the next day! Incredible value at undar A$25 Rich berry, velvety, and drinkable now and over the next few years -- that is, if the screw caps keep for that long. We're buying a case tomorrow...

Sweet & Spicy Carambola

4 carambola/star fruit
1/4 cup tamarind puree
1/3 cup palm- or brown sugar
large pinch of salt
1 fresh red chili, finely chopped
2 tablespoons toasted coconut
1 lime, cut into wedges

1. Slice carambola into stars; refrigerate.
2. Stir tamarind puree and sugarover medium heat till dissolved; cool. If too thick, add a tablespoon of water.
3. Arrange stars on a plate and sprinkle with salt; drizzle sauce atop. Scatter with chili and coconut, and garnish with lime. If desired, top with roasted peanut bits. Serves 4

STYLING:Robert Carmack DESIGN:Morrison Polkinghorne PHOTO:Julian Watt

Visiting Singapore soon and looking for a hotel? Here's two...

The Berjaya Duxton

1929

During our last stay we attended a ribald Sunday luncheon cum charity wine auction. Visiting guest chef Dominique Ferchaud of the InterContinental Le Vendome in Beirut excelled with his grilled tuna loin unexpectedly accompanied with a savory cauliflower "sorbet" and candied seaweed. The iced cauliflower is destined to be repeated on our table soon.
The Duxton Berjaya Hotel has always been one of our favourite hotels: the intimate lobby is smart if not regal, the property small with only 50 rooms, and unrivalled personal service at reasonable cost. Its central location in Chinatown makes it doubly convenient. Only recently taken over by the Malaysian Berjaya chain, we were relieved to see little had changed, with the same staff, and if anything an improved restaurant -- what with the return of Philippe Pau as its manager. The hotel's l'Aigle d'Or has long been one of this island state's finest French restaurants, and we absolutely adore its refined à la carte breakfasts, complete with starched napery. (Breakfast is invariably a smorgasbord affair on paper placemats elsewhere throughout Asia.) Double accolades for The Duxton Berjaya breaking the mold.
	Berjaya Duxton Hotel l'Aigle d'Or Restaurant 83 Duxton Rd. Tel (65) 6227 7678 laigle.dor@pacific.net.sg

On a budget in Singapore? Chinatown and nearby Tanjang Pagar are among the best value places for shopping, eating, and even lodging. Alas, many of the lowest-priced hotel rooms, even when newly-restored, do not have windows. We have always liked the hotels on Keong Saik road, notorious for its brothels in yesteryear, but nowadays revamped and conveniently near the vast Chinatown Centre and some of the island's best shopping. The street's newest hotel is 1929 -- ultra trendy, with designer furniture throughout -- albeit the small rooms and glass cubicle bathrooms bring you back to reality.

1929
50 Keong Saik Rd.
Tel (65) 6347 1929
www.hotel1929.com

	Vancouver Island, Canada: Sooke Harbour House
	Rarely have we been so feted, looked after, indeed pampered than at Sooke Harbour House. Indeed, we were enticed to give up a night's lodging at the dowager Empress Hotel in nearby Victoria! Host Sinclair Philip's gracious hospitality more than matched the food -- all organic, and mostly sourced locally. Nut-coated fish cooked to a delectable crispiness was a highlight, and the wines -- heavily favoring local and unknown boutique British Columbian vineyards, many on Vancouver Island -- made this a destination "worth a special journey" as they say in Michelin.
		The inn began as a bed-and-breakfast, but now rates among North America's finest lodgings. Yet it retains its rustic simplicity. We long to come back. Co-partner Frederique Philip has just published "The Art of Sooke Harbour House", a wonderfully indulgent, personal collection of memories, art pieces and recipes from the inn.
		Sooke Harbour House 1528 Whiffen Spit Rd. Sooke, BC Tel (250) 642 3421 www.sookeharbourhouse.com

CAIPIROVSKA

For those many whetted appetites requesting a recipe for the quenching caipirovska featured in our last tgtgNewsletter: take 1/2 lime, 1 heaping tablespoons sugar, crushed ice and 1/4 cup/4 fl oz. vodka. Cut the lime into small bits, including rind but not seeds, add sugar in a glass, and mull until dissolved. Add vodka, ice and swill. The story goes that a London bartender ran out of cachaça one day, so substituted vodka, and then gave it a Russian-sounding name. The best we've quaffed so far is at the Alila Manggus resort on Bali.

As they say in Guide Michelin, "worth a detour."

Thai Food: What wine to drink?

New Zealand Fly Fishing

Wine with Asian food is always a controversial subject -- at least to Westerners. While a cool, quenching beer works best with the hot spice of chili and the citrus zing of lemongrass and fresh lime, wine also has a role to play in such a marriage of flavors. I recently spoke about Thai foods and wine with Jim Brayne, chief winemaker at the Australian vineyards of McWilliams. read on...

Trout aficionados will not want to miss New Zealand for its great fly fishing. Every few years a mammoth 20 kg (45 lb) prize is reported in the highland newspapers of Mackenzie country, on that country's rugged and pristine south island.