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 THAILAND |
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 Bangkok blogs are abuzz these days about Thai food, and Chef McDang waded deep into the current controversies aroused by foreign chefs cooking “authentic” Thai in that nation’s capital. Seems Aussie-born David Thompson of nahm at chichi Metropolitan Hotel has irked many a nationalist by cooking up some of the capital’s best Thai. Chef McDang’s retort: they “don’t know jack shit.” He theorizes “the most important thing about a country’s cooking is the ingredients – as opposed to the actual practitioners -- for they define a country’s food profile.” Sound akin to French wine terroir theory? For more on McDang, here’s a recent article:
www.cnngo.com |
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Chef Thompson spent nearly a year setting up his new Bangkok eatery, which opened in September, and the food is stunning. Over-order and share dishes; you’ll relish the scintillation. Confusingly, our waiter only handed us a cocktail cum abridged wine list, so request the full plonk menu. We adored the flinty dry red Sancerres accompanying chef’s selections. |
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Prior to nahm’s opening, David Thompson assured that he’d not compromise flavour to suit foreign tourist wants. “The food will be prepared as the Thais would eat it themselves, so there will be no regard or no alternation of the food in order to make it customer friendly. Bugger the customers! That’s always been my motto.”
www.lifestyleasia.com |
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Food writer cum restaurateur Jarrett Wrisley recently opened his shop front Soul Food Mahanakorn on soi Thonglor (soi 55) off thriving Sukhumvit. Besides all-too-quaffable cocktails, the blackboard menu changes daily suiting market specials, plus organic rice, free range meats. This is real comfort food for the discerning expat, focusing on regional street dishes in a clean, comfortable venue. But do Thai’s consider it authentic? Tues-Sun evening only.
www.soulfoodmahanakorn.com |
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rave: decembert 2010 |
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| LAOS |
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We’ve always been strong proponents of cooking food local style, and not compromising for visiting tourists. After all, not all dishes are spicy hot, and a menu balance helps an appreciation of complimenting flavors and textures. So we were dismayed recently to return to Mak Phet in Vientiane Laos, a restaurant we have long praised for its mod take on Lao dishes. Seems a new head teacher thinks foreigners don’t like chili, fish sauce and other essential native flavors, and is adapting her dishes accordingly. As this restaurant is part of the Friends project based in Cambodia, a training school cum eatery for under-privileged youth – its goal should train visitors on local flavors, not vice versa.
www.friends-international.org |
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rave: decembert 2010 |
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| VIETNAM |
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Restaurant Bobby Chinn has a new location in Hanoi’s fashionable Hoy Tay West lake. His cuisine is fusion, and with mains like caramel chicken at $18, it’s expensive by local standards. The New Zealand born chef is Egyptian/Chinese, and educated in Britain and the US, but now jets between Hanoi, HCM/Saigon and Singapore.
www.bobbychinn.com |
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| Meanwhile, Aussie counterpart Luke Nguyen continues to woo TV viewers with recipes from his parent’s homeland. (see also book reviews, this issue). Accolades to Luke for setting up The Little Lantern Foundation for underprivileged kids. The idea came to fruition after he chanced upon a young mango seller in Hoi An, too poor for school. “It costs about $100 a year there for an education and I thought of all the times I had spent a hundred bucks on a meal or blown it in an hour,” says the 30-something chef. |
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Also in Hoi An, try the colorful fusion palette of Duc Tran at Mango Mango. This Vietnamese supremo initially opened Mango Rooms in the old quarter, and he’s now branched out to a more up-market eatery across the river, overlooking the town’s ancient Japanese bridge. Our central Vietnam group were feted with a 9-course degustation of fusion creations like duck prosciutto with mango, and Duc heads to Texas in early June as a star presenter to the International Association of Culinary Professionals annual conference. Duc spent a long decade in Texas, initially as a penniless boat kid, now made good. So he makes a perfect fit for the friendship state.
For Duc’s utube video http://www.mangorooms.com/video.htm |
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Viet Lac Hoi An. Our September group tour to central Vietnam chanced upon Anne Cruickshanks and Scott Marquis, at the back of Viet Lac jewelry – just down from Brothers Cafe, an up-market but over-rated riverfront eatery. The duo were testing menus during our stay, inviting us as guinea pigs. Comfort food with a twist, or American favorites re-interpreted using Vietnamese ingredients. Located with a small bar cum patio garden along the Perfume River, come for snacks, drinks, or just latte. Tues through Sunday breakfast to late; Monday dinner only. dine@vietlachoian.com |
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rave: decembert 2010 |
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